DECLARATION OF COMPLIANCE
Please contact customer service to receive a copy of Declaration of Compliance.
It is hereby confirmed that products produced by / for Fiskars Denmark A/S (Royal Copenhagen) which are intended to come into contact with foodstuffs meet all National and International regulatory requirements, including:
- Council Directive 84/500/EEC of 15 October 1984
- Commission Directive 2005/31/EC of 29 April 2005 amending Council Directive 84/500/EEC
- Regulation (EC) No 1935/2004 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 27 October 2004 on materials and articles intended to come into contact with food and repealing Directives 80/590/EEC and 89/109/EEC
- Manufactured in accordance with Commission Regulation (EC) No 2023/2006 of 22 December 2006 on good manufacturing practice for materials and articles intended to come into contact with food
- Denmark Regulation BEK No. 822 of 26/06/2013 (Food Contact Material Order) Publication date: 29-06-2013. Ministry of the Environment and Food Accession
- FDA CPG Sec. 545.450 Pottery (Ceramics); Import and Domestic - Lead
- FDA CPG Sec. 545.400 Pottery (Ceramics); Import and Domestic – Cadmium
CHRISTMAS PLATES CAN BE USED AS NORMAL DISHES
People frequently contact us because they are worried if they can use Christmas Plates to eat from. The Christmas Plates are originally produced as a decorative object for collectors. But it has also been the intention, that they could be used as normal dishes. In japan, e.g., it is quite normal to use the Christmas Plates for eating purposes. The materials - body, glaze and colour - that are used for producing Christmas Plates are precisely the same as those that are used for producing the normal dinnerware, e.g. Blue Fluted Plain, Blue Fluted Mega, etc. We have through the years complied to - and still do - the authorities demand for food contact materials. Especially underglaze decorated items like Christmas Plates, Blue Fluted, etc. are completely resistant towards all external materials influences - that is dishwashing, food contact etc.
Faience is fired the first time at approximately 1160 - 1200°C, which gives the faience its final shape and strength. Second firing, the glaze fire, is approximately 100°C lower than the first fire, and typically the items are placed in special racks. The faience body is porous and a little water-absorbing. After some time in use, the faience might develop crazing in the glaze layer. By absorbsion of water in the porous body, the body expands a little and the glaze layer cracks. This is a normal faience phenomenon, and the cracks will develop unrelated to the way, the faience have been treated – meaning that dishwashing, hot or cold storage, humidity, use, etc., has no special influence on the development of cracks. The daily utility will not be affected by crazing, and the faience will not lose its strength. The combination of a porous body and a not totally tight glaze layer can mean some periodical discoloration under the glaze.
The areas, where the faience has been hanging during the glazefire, will typically leave some unglazed areas, where some humidity can penetrate and make discolorations. If it is water, that is absorbed, the discoloration will disappear again. If it is some kind of grease, a more permanent discoloration can be the result. Typically, this might happen with a butter jar. The faience glaze is lead containing, and this was originally necessary due to the low second firing temperature. The lead glaze gives the faience its special look and materiality. The lead itself is a part of a practically insoluble compound, which is used in the glaze. When the faience was produced, the raw glaze was tested for lead solubility (because of the employees) and the fired product was tested as well (because of the consumers). We have all the years complied with the requirements of the authorities. It is perfectly safe to use as well new as old faience to eat from every day. Throughout the years, the best know faience dinnerware has been Blue Line, Tranquebar, Ursula, For All Seasons, and many others.
THERMAL MUGS - OCCURRENCE OF CRACKS AND LEAKS
A thermal mug consists of two shells with air in between. The cup appears to be thick, robust and heavy. But in reality the shells are a bit thinner than what to expect, and the cup in general is more vulnerable than one would think. The mugs are not weaker than other porcelain cups. They can be used on a frequent daily basis. Breakage is mostly caused by a hard stroke, since they often, because of their appearance, are expected to have better durability than other thinner cups.
If a thermal mug is leaking, meaning if fluids come from the cavity between the shells, it can be caused by cracks in the shells. It can also be caused by a defected closing of a small hole in the bottom of the mug. The hole is made for technical reasons, and it is closed with sanitary silicone, before the mug can be taken into use. If the silicone over time should be worn out, it is very easy to repair.
If a leak occurs because of the hole in the bottom, then the cup can be placed on a radiator overnight, bottom down. The fluid will then run out of the hole or vaporize. The hole needs to be completely clean and dry, before it can be repaired with sanitary silicone again.
FLUTED CONTRAST MUGS - DAILY USE
It is important to point out that a Fluted Contrast Mug is not a thermal mug – but a normal mug with a decorative silicone sleeve that can isolate from the heat. The mug will get warm on the outside, and the isolating properties cannot be compared with a thermal mug, it can be compared with a normal mug without a handle. If the mug feels too hot to hold, then one should fill a little less hot fluid into the mug and hold on the upperpart of the mug when drinking.
The silicone sleeve is not glued onto the porcelain part of the mug. This would give some inappropriate transition between silicone and porcelain, which could not be cleaned properly. It is possible to remove the silicone sleeve from the porcelain part, and wash it separately. When the Fluted Contrast Mug is washed in the dishwasher, the silicone sleeve can become loose from the hot dishwasher, and water can get in under the sleeve.
After washing, the mugs will get cold again. The silicone will pull together, and water can be caught between the sleeve and the porcelain. We therefore recommend washing porcelain and silicone sleeve separated.
The silicone sleeve can be hard to get off the porcelain mug. Sometimes it can then be easier to wash the mug with the silicone sleeve on, and the sleeve can be removed while it is loose and warm. Then the two parts should be dried before the sleeve is put back on the porcelain mug – and the mug is ready for use.
In the dishwasher, as well as in general use, a thin layer of soap and grease can be deposited on the surface of the silicone sleeve, as the silicone has a matte surface, there are a lot of microscopic bulges in the surface where soap and grease can get stuck.
A possible solution to this problem may be to clean the silicone sleeve with a sponge and dishwashing liquid with a little acid e.g. white vinegar or acetic acid. This removes the sticky surface, and grease will not tend to settle in the silicone. There is no need to repeat this every time the mugs are being washed. We have experienced that if this is done only once, the sticky effect should not occur again.
ZODIAC FIGURINES - CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
The Zodiac figurines – both black and white are made in bisquit, which means that they are fired to zero porosity and without glaze. Normally you put on a layer of glaze on the porcelain; this is done from an aesthetic point of view, because the glaze layer is very smooth, and it does not respond to dirt and is very easy to clean.
A bisquit fired item like the Zodiac figurines, behave a bit different than glazed items. It has a slight rough surface, which makes it receptive to dirt. The black figurines are also receptive to contact marks from other materials such as paper, cardboard, dry cloths etc. which will give dry, white areas. In general for both types; they can be washed with different detergents, which can remove dirt and white areas. But one should be very careful during washing, since there are a lot of thin, fragile areas than can be damaged.
After a thorough cleaning, the rough surface will need a small amount of grease to keep a homogeneous appearance. Do not add too much so it will become shiny, but just enough for the surface to appear homogeneous again. Different kind of grease can be used, e.g. normal hand crème or something alike. A little amount of crème is added to a cloth and lightly scattered over the whole figurine. Then the figurine is wiped of, and you will be able to see a good result right away.
BLACK AND BLUE FLUTED
Marks from daily use like scratches and cutlery rub-off are patina, which cannot be avoided. The daily use will give these dinner sets character and will underline the rustic look.
The surface of the glaze is mat and rough by nature, so if knives, forks, spoons and sticks are used – scratches will occur. This cannot be avoided. When you have a mat rough surface, the structure of this surface is easier affected by the use of knives, forks, spoons etc. than a shiny smooth glaze. Scratches cannot be removed. Metal marks can partly be removed with a household polishing sponge and /or some polishing detergent. However, daily use will always leave some marks in the surface, and the marks will stay as patina on the objects. Scratches will also occur, when the plates are stacked and then “scrape” against each other. We recommend stacking with a napkin between the plates.
FLORA DANICA - COLOURS AND DECORATIONS
The decoration on Flora Danica is a so called onglaze decoration, which means that the decoration is painted on top of the already glost fired porcelain plate and afterwards fired at approx. 870 °C. This technique and firing temperature is used to get the, for Flora Danica, special materiality and colour richness.
Colours for the Flora Danica decoration traditionally contain lead; it has been so since production started in 1795. The lead content is necessary, because this makes it possible to give the decoration its special and unique look. Even if we have been working for years on getting the lead out of these colours, we have not yet succeeded to find a mixture that can replace the lead in the colours and at the same time keep the unique materiality and colour richness.
The finished product in Flora Danica is produced under the legislation of Denmark and EU in regards to lead content in such kind of products. The colours become insoluble, and the legislation is in compliance, which means it is not more dangerous to eat from Flora Danica than from any ordinary porcelain item.
It happens that some of the raw materials, which are a part of the Flora Danica colours, no longer can be purchased. A great work is put into finding substitution raw materials that will give the exact same expression as the missing colour. The variations which occur in Flora Danica through the years will only be because of the handcrafted items and the many different painters that have painted the decorations.
The top, hanger on the Royal Copenhagen Easter Eggs, can under different conditions oxidize, which means that just like silver, it can get a darker, spotted look. This can be removed carefully. The tops have very thin silver plating that must be treated carefully in order not to damage it. We recommend using a very soft cotton cloth for polishing the top to remove the oxidization and not the silver layer.
The little ring in the Easter Egg top is put on by hand. Sometimes the ends of the ring need to be properly squeezed together. If not then the ribbon can slip out of the ring, and the eggs can fall to the ground and break. Therefore, it would be a good idea to give the ring a squeeze to make sure, that there is no space between the ends, which the ribbon can slip out of.